Hi guys, I understand there is a fuse box right-hand side of the steering wheel where I may be able to take a feed for the CB. Firstly, is this correct? Then, which one do I use?
I would like it to be a fuse that is only live when the ignition is on so as not to inadvertently leave it turned on and come back to a flat battery.
If anyone has a photo that would also help. Oh, and if this fuse box is the place, how do I get the cover off? There appears to be a little hand hold, but a gentle pull doesn't seem to open it.
TIA
Hey, you need Micro fuse piggy back, and a test light. Most of the fuses in the right hand fuse box you can use all you need to do is test the fuse for power and add the piggy back it should take about 5 minutes. I stowed my GME UHF just behind the knee shield und the steering column, there is a tin bracket there and i screw the mount to the top of that.
2019 Wildtrak
Outback Armour shocks
GME XRS
RAPTOR Rim, 285/60/17
Snorkel and K&N filter
It’s not a Mall Crawler.
You don’t learn paying someone to do it!
I ran mine of the 12v socket outlet in the Centre lower dash. Quick and easy already fused and I only use the outlet to charge phones so still capacity.
Hi mate, keep away from the fuse box under the dash is my recommendation. Had a Ranger canopy fitted recently by a professional company that required constant power for the rear console lighting. They wouldn't touch any of the existing electrical fuse boxes and tapped directly from the battery. Appears they have been burned before with Canbus issues which the Ranger is full of for electrical monitoring. Suggest you tap directly from the battery through a correctly rated fuse probably 5 or 10 amp equipment loading dependent and ground somewhere on the vehicle.
The point to remember is the body control module as I have read gives you 3 shots if there is a critical error/short and then shuts down. Once the BCM shuts down you are stuffed and a replacement module costs thousands and likely needs programming $$$ therefore if your not sure as to exactly what you are tapping into under the dash then either get it wired professionally or tap directly from the battery. That could save you a very expensive repair bill as the electronics in modern vehicles are very complex. This is the best advice I can give you being a licenced electrican by trade so I am talking from many years of experience but I am not an auto electrican. Either get it wired professionally or tap directly from the battery through an appropriate rated fuse module and ground the return somewhere properly earthed on the chassis.
Every time you tap a fuse always endup with relay.
So your load have to be connected to the relay not tap fuse
Relay feed by enggine battery or second battery.
I'm setting mine up ATM. I run a fused feed from the battery up under the glove box and mount relays and more fuses there for my extras. The relays are triggered by the lower left cig lighter outlet. For the CB and some extra 12 v and USB outlets they are fed from a timer relay, which means that they stay powered for an adjustable time, say 20 mins. This means my GPS and CB can still be used when at the servo or other spot when the ignition is off.
Wildtrakx wrote: ↑Sun Jun 12, 2022 11:54 pm
Hi mate, keep away from the fuse box under the dash is my recommendation. Had a Ranger canopy fitted recently by a professional company that required constant power for the rear console lighting. They wouldn't touch any of the existing electrical fuse boxes and tapped directly from the battery. Appears they have been burned before with Canbus issues which the Ranger is full of for electrical monitoring. Suggest you tap directly from the battery through a correctly rated fuse probably 5 or 10 amp equipment loading dependent and ground somewhere on the vehicle.
The point to remember is the body control module as I have read gives you 3 shots if there is a critical error/short and then shuts down. Once the BCM shuts down you are stuffed and a replacement module costs thousands and likely needs programming $$$ therefore if your not sure as to exactly what you are tapping into under the dash then either get it wired professionally or tap directly from the battery. That could save you a very expensive repair bill as the electronics in modern vehicles are very complex. This is the best advice I can give you being a licenced electrican by trade so I am talking from many years of experience but I am not an auto electrican. Either get it wired professionally or tap directly from the battery through an appropriate rated fuse module and ground the return somewhere properly earthed on the chassis.
Why don't you get a copy and read the body equipment manual available via ford web site, it will give you the relevant information on how to add electrical accessories to any model ranger.
Thanks Trublu, was not aware there was a manual available for all Rangers on Fords website.
Thought that wouldn't be readily available - only to Ford dealers.
Will have a look at it -appreciate the feedback
Wildtrakx wrote: ↑Mon Jun 13, 2022 12:25 pm
Thanks Trublu, was not aware there was a manual available for all Rangers on Fords website.
Thought that wouldn't be readily available - only to Ford dealers.
Will have a look at it -appreciate the feedback
Yes it is real bummer when then Ford does not notify owners there is reference to adding accessories to their rangers at handover of vehicle, to be quite honest this should have been mentioned in owners manuals or better still part of the owners manual.
In my 2016 Wildtrak, I took the feed from the left cigarette lighter wires as it is already fused (as already mentioned)
5 years an no issues.
In my 2021 Wildtrak I took the feed from a piggy bag fuse as suggested, over a year and no issues.
I had the time delay from the cig lighter, but not from my current set-up.
Just my experience.
It looks rough as bags but I extended the power lead and connected a ciggy lighter plug to it, ran it under the centre console and plugged it into the rear power outlet. Does the job.
