2017 Wildtrak - Radiator Replacement

iainboyd · Post by **iainboyd** » Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:03 pm

Hi all, next week I'll be replacing the standard radiator on my Wildtrak for a aftermarket unit, basically going from a 25mm deep radiator to 40 mm deep with an increased capacity of around 30% coolant and with aluminium top and bottom caps.
Has anyone done this and / or replaced a radiator on a PX2 and if so what's the best procedure ?? Thanks in advance

bricky · Post by **bricky** » Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:29 pm

Any reason your replacing the stock radiator they seem to be more than up to the task

Neddysmith · Post by **Neddysmith** » Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:06 am

Yeah id be interested too in the reasoning for replacing the stock radiator, when i have seen no issues with any of they and they seem pretty reliable.

iainboyd · Post by **iainboyd** » Wed Feb 21, 2018 2:33 pm

bricky wrote:Any reason your replacing the stock radiator they seem to be more than up to the task

I do a lot of touring way out in the central deserts, off the tracks by generally simply following GPS directions and camel tracks to cross the dunes, in temperatures that at times are hovering in the high 40's low 50's -- the last trip was to try to recover a mates GQ that he had to abandon due to overheating issues.

I take on board what you say about the standard unit being adequate but I was offered this larger alloy radiator with alloy top and bottom tanks, it's 40mm deep instead of the standard 28mm and holds roughly 30% more coolant, it's a tested prototype unit and I was offered it at a very discounted price and when they come on the market I'm sure those members who do a lot of heavy caravan type summertime towing will be interested especially as the Mk 2 will, I believe, be offered with an optional ATF cooler coil built into the bottom can.

Until they come on the market I'm sworn to secrecy as the manufactures don't want to give their rivals any prior warning.

lame2 · Post by **lame2** » Wed Feb 21, 2018 4:54 pm

I’m interested when they come into the market. I was looking about 2 years ago but found no interest from local radiator people. They quoted me some rediculous prices. There are some on the forum who have said repeatedly the cooling system is marginal. I haven’t had it go too high, but with towing 3.3T, I monitor it a lot. PM sent to you Iain, but I think you have answered it above.

bricky · Post by **bricky** » Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:20 am

GU 4.2? There very prone to overheating reason I sold mine I tried a lot of things including bigger radiator but found in my circumstances heavy towing it just took a little longer to get hot not a real fix .I think in your application you would find the same ie continuous low speed with little airflow bigger radiator bigger heat sink.I don't believe there's a problem with the standard cooling system as I flog mine towing in high ambient temps.Intrested to hear if anyone's had any overheating issues

iainboyd · Post by **iainboyd** » Thu Feb 22, 2018 4:20 pm

On the same subject -- again, has anyone removed their PX2 radiator and are there any tricks - (that oddly was my first question and yet to be answered ) other than the clips that hold the A/C condenser to it !! also does anyone know the standard coolant capacity ? I'm guessing its around 15-19 litres so I have a 20 litres of NULON OAT concentrate and 20 litres of demineralised water that will give me 40 litres of coolant at the recommended 50/50 mixture.

lincolnland · Post by **lincolnland** » Thu Feb 22, 2018 7:18 pm

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:30 pm

iainboyd wrote:
bricky wrote:Any reason your replacing the stock radiator they seem to be more than up to the task
I do a lot of touring way out in the central deserts, off the tracks by generally simply following GPS directions and camel tracks to cross the dunes, in temperatures that at times are hovering in the high 40's low 50's -- the last trip was to try to recover a mates GQ that he had to abandon due to overheating issues.

I take on board what you say about the standard unit being adequate but I was offered this larger alloy radiator with alloy top and bottom tanks, it's 40mm deep instead of the standard 28mm and holds roughly 30% more coolant, it's a tested prototype unit and I was offered it at a very discounted price and when they come on the market I'm sure those members who do a lot of heavy caravan type summertime towing will be interested especially as the Mk 2 will, I believe, be offered with an optional ATF cooler coil built into the bottom can.

Until they come on the market I'm sworn to secrecy as the manufactures don't want to give their rivals any prior warning.

Unless you are going through there in the middle of summer (and last time I checked they close the Simpson/stony etc from dec-march) you won’t see temps that high.

And besides plenty of people towing 6t+ with rangers in 45c+ temps on stock cooling setups.

You are literally throwing away money for nothing.

And besides it’s the engine fan that will be working at high load low speeds, and the thickness will be useless.

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iainboyd · Post by **iainboyd** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:37 am

Copie wrote:
iainboyd wrote:
bricky wrote:Any reason your replacing the stock radiator they seem to be more than up to the task
Unless you are going through there in the middle of summer (and last time I checked they close the Simpson/stony etc from dec-march) you won’t see temps that high.

And besides plenty of people towing 6t+ with rangers in 45c+ temps on stock cooling setups.

You are literally throwing away money for nothing.

And besides it’s the engine fan that will be working at high load low speeds, and the thickness will be useless.

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Thats a bit insulting, but your call and yes, Julie and I do most of our touring from Early November to the end of February mainly as she still lectures at Uni and thats the summer break. The last time we went to Lake Eyre it was over 52*C and our old Disco was close to boiling and I'm determined that this wont occur again, consequently I'm taking the time, effort and MY MONEY to ensure its as reliable and touble free as possible. Being a retired mechanical engineer who spent well over 30 years in the HVAC industry I think I know a thing about fans, their design and the calculation of static resistances and just looking at the new radiator I'd say that the static through it would be less than the current standard unit, sure its 15mm deeper but the matrix are better spaced and its 100% alluminium instead of steel and plastic.

lincolnland · Post by **lincolnland** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:34 am

Silkwood · Post by **Silkwood** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:03 pm

"but the matrix are better spaced" ...

Matrix is (or matrices are)!
Couldn't help myself!

Seriously, good post. There is more to this than just a thicker radiator or greater coolant capacity (though those may certainly have an effect). A well designed all alloy 40mm radiator (as opposed to the original 16mm

) coupled with a better fan has made a world of difference to my Delica.

Mind you, this was all under more expert advice, no idea if it will benefit a Ranger. I'm sure you have a better idea, though.

Cheers,

Mark

metal89 · Post by **metal89** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:05 pm

Hi everybody.
Im a mechanical engineer. I know lots of mathematical equations and how everything mechanical works. Can you please help me with changing a radiator....

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Copie · Post by **Copie** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:06 pm

iainboyd wrote:
Copie wrote:
iainboyd wrote: Unless you are going through there in the middle of summer (and last time I checked they close the Simpson/stony etc from dec-march) you won’t see temps that high.

And besides plenty of people towing 6t+ with rangers in 45c+ temps on stock cooling setups.

You are literally throwing away money for nothing.

And besides it’s the engine fan that will be working at high load low speeds, and the thickness will be useless.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thats a bit insulting, but your call and yes, Julie and I do most of our touring from Early November to the end of February mainly as she still lectures at Uni and thats the summer break. The last time we went to Lake Eyre it was over 52*C and our old Disco was close to boiling and I'm determined that this wont occur again, consequently I'm taking the time, effort and MY MONEY to ensure its as reliable and touble free as possible. Being a retired mechanical engineer who spent well over 30 years in the HVAC industry I think I know a thing about fans, their design and the calculation of static resistances and just looking at the new radiator I'd say that the static through it would be less than the current standard unit, sure its 15mm deeper but the matrix are better spaced and its 100% alluminium instead of steel and plastic.

HVAC isn’t automotive cooling.

And like most 4wd mods it’s a phenomenal waste of money, more chance of your batteries boiling and having the internal plates fail.

And it shows how little you know since the factory radiator has an aluminium core with plastic end caps. And all it will do is sit on the thermostats opening temp which is 87-89c just like the factory system, even towing right up on GCM into a headwind mine rarely moves from that temp.

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gordo350 · Post by **gordo350** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 6:46 pm

Geez. A man asks a question and everyone questions his birthright . If you've got nothing to shed light on the subject, say nothing

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:13 pm

Infact I would be amazed if it’s even a straight bolt in and doesn’t foul on the engine fan and shroud.

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MrTBum · Post by **MrTBum** » Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:59 am

Bill, be careful that's Gazz joke territory.

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lincolnland · Post by **lincolnland** » Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:21 am

Post by **Trublu** » Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:31 am

Was always common knowledge many years ago heavy duty radiators were fitted to increase cooling capacity, cannot see why this principle has changed going by some of the replies being stated here.
Surely a bigger capacity has to make some difference!

Post by **Trublu** » Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:40 am

Copie wrote:
And like most 4wd mods it’s a phenomenal waste of money, more chance of your batteries boiling and having the internal plates fail.

And it shows how little you know since the factory radiator has an aluminium core with plastic end caps. And all it will do is sit on the thermostats opening temp which is 87-89c just like the factory system, even towing right up on GCM into a headwind mine rarely moves from that temp.
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How accurate is that temp gauge in the cluster? going by my knowledge gauges are only a rough indication and proven to be inaccurate at times, by the time the cluster gauge moves up scale it could be all over for your engine, probably the very reason why owners are purchasing scan gauges for better accuracy of readings.
I know I see a fair amount of temp variance on my scan gauge where the cluster does not really move, something to think about.

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Sat Feb 24, 2018 2:01 pm

trublu wrote:
Copie wrote:
And like most 4wd mods it’s a phenomenal waste of money, more chance of your batteries boiling and having the internal plates fail.

And it shows how little you know since the factory radiator has an aluminium core with plastic end caps. And all it will do is sit on the thermostats opening temp which is 87-89c just like the factory system, even towing right up on GCM into a headwind mine rarely moves from that temp.
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How accurate is that temp gauge in the cluster? going by my knowledge gauges are only a rough indication and proven to be inaccurate at times, by the time the cluster gauge moves up scale it could be all over for your engine, probably the very reason why owners are purchasing scan gauges for better accuracy of readings.
I know I see a fair amount of temp variance on my scan gauge where the cluster does not really move, something to think about.

I go via the scan gauge, and it sits on 89-92c unless I’m really hammering it in 45c temps whilst towing into a headwind, but even then the engine fan kicks in and brings the temp back to 89c

Never seen it go remotely near 100c on the coolant.

Rear diff and transmission is a different story.

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Grant L1 · Post by **Grant L1** » Sun Feb 25, 2018 5:33 am

I have pretty well the exact same figures as Copie, Scangauge tells the story accurately and mine never goes near 100c.Working hard, temp rises and then thermo fan kicks in and quickly brings it back to normal temps. As he said auto box is a different story. Aftermarket front mounted cooler solves that, for prolonged soft sand it is best to fit a fan in front of the atf cooler as well.

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Sun Feb 25, 2018 3:13 pm

trublu wrote:Was always common knowledge many years ago heavy duty radiators were fitted to increase cooling capacity, cannot see why this principle has changed going by some of the replies being stated here.
Surely a bigger capacity has to make some difference!

That’s correct and you typically do that when the factory system is not up to the task, but given the factory ranger cooling system is very well designed with ample capacity there is zero need to change out a perfectly fine radiator

Literally throwing away money

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lame2 · Post by **lame2** » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:20 pm

I’m sure we all spend our own money how we feel it is needed. I certainly don’t ask permission from forum members.

Post by **Trublu** » Sun Feb 25, 2018 8:41 pm

Copie wrote:
trublu wrote:Was always common knowledge many years ago heavy duty radiators were fitted to increase cooling capacity, cannot see why this principle has changed going by some of the replies being stated here.
Surely a bigger capacity has to make some difference!
That’s correct and you typically do that when the factory system is not up to the task, but given the factory ranger cooling system is very well designed with ample capacity there is zero need to change out a perfectly fine radiator

Literally throwing away money

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Maybe or maybe not, just because we have not experience problems does not mean others have, up to the individual owner I suppose.
Just like adding Tranny coolers, some see it necessary, others like me don't.

Cheers.

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Mon Feb 26, 2018 12:25 am

trublu wrote:
Copie wrote:
trublu wrote:Was always common knowledge many years ago heavy duty radiators were fitted to increase cooling capacity, cannot see why this principle has changed going by some of the replies being stated here.
Surely a bigger capacity has to make some difference!
That’s correct and you typically do that when the factory system is not up to the task, but given the factory ranger cooling system is very well designed with ample capacity there is zero need to change out a perfectly fine radiator

Literally throwing away money

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Maybe or maybe not, just because we have not experience problems does not mean others have, up to the individual owner I suppose.
Just like adding Tranny coolers, some see it necessary, others like me don't.

Cheers.

Except out of the 120,000+ rangers and bt50s running around the country tales of overheating are next to nil.

Why? Because the factory system is more then up to the task of keeping water temps at their preset factory running temp (89c) even when pushed to the vehicles limits.

Bit like adding 30 micron pre filters, waste of money since the factory filter is already 5 micron.

bricky · Post by **bricky** » Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:35 am

Been some good discussion here not a lot of help for the op though as he asked has anyone removed there radiator if so have was it easy and has anyone experienced overheating that was radiator related.As for wasting money on mods always the individuals choice if it gives him peace of mind then worth every cent to him just as a 3inch exhaust or I drive does nothing for performance lots of people like them and are happy to part with there money.

bricky · Post by **bricky** » Mon Feb 26, 2018 8:58 am

Thats my point pal each to there own had idrive and 3 inch on my first BT all good but this time put the money a long range tank better for me. Interesting though after all these years haven't heard of of any radiator issues.

NTMID8 · Post by **NTMID8** » Mon Feb 26, 2018 10:00 am

Ill just leave this here

https://youtu.be/RpPZlG1VRN0

NTMID8 · Post by **NTMID8** » Tue Feb 27, 2018 11:00 am

Got the ARB one, very happy. Avg about 1200km to a tank

Stefs-cruiser · Post by **Stefs-cruiser** » Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:57 am

wonder how the OP went with the radiator install?

Gunmetal · Post by **Gunmetal** » Fri Mar 02, 2018 1:15 pm

Who know's this post has well and truly moved on from that.

Stefs-cruiser · Post by **Stefs-cruiser** » Fri Mar 02, 2018 2:21 pm

Gunmetal wrote:Who know's this post has well and truly moved on from that.

But it should not have.
this used to be a great forum, but these days its all about joking and upsetting the flow of information.
I am all for banter, but there is just too much of it, in between a few good posts.

Maybe we should have a separate section for the banter/joking etc?

because currently its getting to hard to find any information without scrolling through all the 'banter'.

Post by **Trublu** » Sat Mar 03, 2018 12:26 pm

Stefs-cruiser wrote:
Gunmetal wrote:Who know's this post has well and truly moved on from that.
But it should not have.
this used to be a great forum, but these days its all about joking and upsetting the flow of information.
I am all for banter, but there is just too much of it, in between a few good posts.

Maybe we should have a separate section for the banter/joking etc?

because currently its getting to hard to find any information without scrolling through all the 'banter'.

You have raised a valid point, if posts start to go off topic then they will be deleted, now this one is back on track.

Cheers.

Gunmetal · Post by **Gunmetal** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:28 am

Stefs-cruiser wrote:
Gunmetal wrote:Who know's this post has well and truly moved on from that.
But it should not have.
this used to be a great forum, but these days its all about joking and upsetting the flow of information.
I am all for banter, but there is just too much of it, in between a few good posts.

Maybe we should have a separate section for the banter/joking etc?

because currently its getting to hard to find any information without scrolling through all the 'banter'.

I agree %100. Good to see mods taking action.

iainboyd · Post by **iainboyd** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:30 pm

Okay, and I guess much to Copies disgust the swap was easy, the only thing that had to go was the strip of foam rubber that filled the gap between the existing radiator and the inner shroud, he is obviously in cahoots with my kids and trying to maintain their inheritance that I'm equally intent on spending, the Ranger has to date cost a tad over $128,000. -- that's purchase (cash) and a huge contribution to ARB, ORS and the HPF in Melbourne for the vehicle and engine preparation and modifications. Incidentally I have three RedArc gauges. The primary gauge is a three section unit on the "A" pillar that indicates boost pressure, EGT and oil pressure. The second RedArc gauge indicates coolant and oil temperatures. The coolant temperature sits on 90*C - just as it did before the change over, boost runs from 8 to 25 PSI depending on load, EGT normally sits on just under 300*C but in top gear powering up Cherry Tree Hill just outside Mudgee it went up to 400*C . I also run a low water level alarm in the top of the new radiator. The third gauge built into the rear shelve system indicates the condition of both batteries. Incidentally and again this will upset Copie and mu stepsons, both are very expensive Lithium batteries, the new 100a/h in the rear and the replacement 135a/h in the front - why ?? well how about a saving of 50 kilos in total and in the desert weight is everything and despite having ARB upgrade the GVM to 3500 kilos it still hits the public weighbridge at 3250. Now, off to the Simpson on the 11th, just in time for it re-opening on the 13th !!

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 4:31 pm

You spent 128 grand on a ranger + fitout? Wow they saw you coming.

Could of had a NPS 300 or Canter for that money, with 37 inch singles, coil conversion and a full camper built cheaper.

Not only would it be similar on fuel but far more reliable, can carry twice the weight of a ranger, has a solid C section straight chassis.

Whoever dealt with you at ARB would of been rubbing their hands together

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ab67 · Post by **ab67** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 4:53 pm

A staggered core radiator is best if needed.. tranny cooler with fan a good start.
PS. Keep spending..

Copie · Post by **Copie** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:21 pm

ab67 wrote:A staggered core radiator is best if needed.. tranny cooler with fan a good start.
PS. Keep spending..

Heh it’s what is in my 909. Works well with proper aluminium bonnet shrouding and the updated Horton fan clutch pack.

Keeps the temps under 110c in 45c ambient temps at 90t at least.

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Bill68 · Post by **Bill68** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 6:49 pm

iainboyd wrote:Okay, and I guess much to Copies disgust the swap was easy, the only thing that had to go was the strip of foam rubber that filled the gap between the existing radiator and the inner shroud, he is obviously in cahoots with my kids and trying to maintain their inheritance that I'm equally intent on spending, the Ranger has to date cost a tad over $128,000. -- that's purchase (cash) and a huge contribution to ARB, ORS and the HPF in Melbourne for the vehicle and engine preparation and modifications. Incidentally I have three RedArc gauges. The primary gauge is a three section unit on the "A" pillar that indicates boost pressure, EGT and oil pressure. The second RedArc gauge indicates coolant and oil temperatures. The coolant temperature sits on 90*C - just as it did before the change over, boost runs from 8 to 25 PSI depending on load, EGT normally sits on just under 300*C but in top gear powering up Cherry Tree Hill just outside Mudgee it went up to 400*C . I also run a low water level alarm in the top of the new radiator. The third gauge built into the rear shelve system indicates the condition of both batteries. Incidentally and again this will upset Copie and mu stepsons, both are very expensive Lithium batteries, the new 100a/h in the rear and the replacement 135a/h in the front - why ?? well how about a saving of 50 kilos in total and in the desert weight is everything and despite having ARB upgrade the GVM to 3500 kilos it still hits the public weighbridge at 3250. Now, off to the Simpson on the 11th, just in time for it re-opening on the 13th !!

Righto were going to need pictures of this build.....please